Change Sofa Upholstery

Change the marked benchtop section to honed white marble. Leave the side benchtops, cabinets, sink, tap, tiles and everything else exactly as they are.

Restyle the supplied bathroom image as a warm natural vintage interior with creamy ivory walls, deep jade-green handmade tiles, honey-brown timber, woven cane and aged brass. Keep the source camera position, framing, room proportions, walls, window and doorway locations, and the positions and shapes of the vanity, basin, toilet and shower. Adapt the following finishes to the existing surfaces; do not add a window, extend the room or move fixtures to imitate another layout. Let ivory remain the dominant wall color. Use small square handmade green glazed tiles on the existing shower wall or pier, with a restrained two-row horizontal tile band across the remaining walls. Keep generous ivory areas above and below the band. The glaze has softly irregular edges, subtle individual variations between jade and bottle green, and lively small reflections. Avoid muddy olive, faded gray and a global green color cast. Finish the floor with SMALL irregular rounded green stone mosaic pieces, finely grouted and installed flat. Scatter readable cream-white daisy inlays with pale beige centers through the mosaic. The petals are stone pieces embedded flush with the floor. Preserve the fine mosaic scale; do not replace it with large slabs, a square grid, raised flowers or printed floral graphics. Give the existing vanity warm honey-brown timber and finely woven cane cabinet fronts while keeping its form. Use pale ivory stone with subtle veining for the countertop, clean white ceramics for the basin and toilet, and softly aged brass for visible taps and shower fittings. Retain the existing mirror, lighting, towels, stool, plants and accessories in place. Where present, keep linen cream-colored with restrained dark stripes, timber naturally warm and foliage varied rather than dense or fluorescent. Use warm afternoon daylight through the actual window, with believable blind and foliage shadows only where the source supports them. Add gentle neutral reflected light to brighten the ivory walls, shaded green tiles, vanity and foreground floor. Keep the result airy but dimensional: readable shadows, luminous cream surfaces, delicate glaze reflections and protected highlights. Preserve the direction of existing sunlight. Warmth comes from sunlight and timber, not an overall amber filter. Return one photorealistic interior photograph in the source aspect ratio. Keep vertical lines straight, material textures tactile and exposure natural. No new objects, people, text, collage, logos or watermark. Avoid an elongated corridor appearance, exaggerated wide-angle distortion, plastic plants, excessive HDR, oversharpening and a CGI showroom finish.

Edit the uploaded interior image to create stronger, believable natural light and shadow while preserving the room itself. First identify the visible windows, glazed doors, skylights and other existing daylight openings. Use only these openings as the sources of daylight. The direction, angle, width and reach of the light must be consistent with their location, size, height and orientation. Do not invent an unseen window, sunbeam or light source to make the composition more dramatic. Keep the original camera position, viewing direction, lens perspective, crop and aspect ratio. Preserve every wall, ceiling, floor, opening, frame, curtain, built-in, piece of furniture, decorative object and plant. Keep their count, geometry, scale, position and orientation. Do not redesign, restyle, add, remove or move anything. Preserve the actual material assignments and underlying colors; only their appearance under the new light may change. Strengthen sunlight entering through the existing glazing. Create readable pools of daylight and natural transitions into shade. Project window-frame shadows only where the source has matching mullions or frames, with correct perspective and obstruction by the room. If curtains are present, filter the light through their actual fabric; do not add curtains or invent a blind pattern. Cast shadows from existing furniture, plants and architectural edges in the same coherent direction. Let the scene's openings determine the lighting: light from a side opening should travel into the room from that side; a visible rear window should create believable backlighting toward the camera. Do not assume an off-camera opening unless the source clearly establishes it. If the openings cannot be determined, keep the source light direction and improve exposure gently instead of fabricating dramatic sunlight. Use physically plausible bounce light, contact shadows and restrained reflections. Keep shadows softer with distance from the casting object and let sheltered areas remain naturally darker. Add enough contrast to reveal depth without blocked blacks, blown-out windows, orange color casts, glossy floors, exaggerated HDR or artificial haze. Reveal the existing fabric, timber and stone textures without changing their finishes or oversharpening them. Return one photographic relighting of the same room, at the same framing. No collage, detail panels, text, arrows, people, watermarks or interface elements. The edit should look like a convincing photograph taken with better natural light, not a remodeled room.